3jorn

I thought I would write a little post about buying lenses.
I’m actually not going to write down which lens you should buy, more what might be good to know when choosing your lenses.
When I bought my first DSLR camera a Canon 300D I got a standard kit lens with it, the Canon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6.
I thought it was great, it was such a big improvement from my little point and shoot cameras that I had own before that.
After about a year later I wanted to buy another lens and then I stumbled in to the world of lenses, everyone said that I should buy this and that because it’s an AF f/2.8 lens bla bla… I didn’t understand anything they were saying, can’t I just buy a lens that I can shoot better pictures with?
So if anyone is in that position now that I was in then, this might help you… at least I hope it will.

When you are choosing your lenses there are 3 main questions that you need to ask yourself.
A. What kind of photos do you want to shoot?
B. Are you using a full frame sensor or crop sensor sensor?
C. If you are using a crop sensor sensor camera, are you thinking about upgrading
someday?
D. If you don’t know what full frame sensor or a crop sensor is… no problem, I will tell you shortly.

Let’s actually start with question B.
I won’t go technical here, but a full frame sensor has a sensor which is the same size as the 35mm film frame has. A crop sensor will crop an X amount of your photos off, depending on which camera you are using. For example Nikon, Pentax, Sony and samsung has a crop factor of 1.5, canon 1.6, Sigma 1.7.
This sounds difficult but it actually isn’t that complicated.
For example, if you put a 10mm lens on a Canon crop sensor camera, you won’t actually see as wide as 10mm, you will see 10mm x 1.6 = 16mm.
If you put a 10mm lens on a Nikon you will have 10mm x 1.5 = 15mm.
But if you put a 10mm on a full frame sensor which means it doesn’t have a crop factor it will still be a 10mm lens.

Here are a few camera that are full frame sensors:
Canon EOS-1Ds
Canon EOS-1Ds Mark II
Canon EOS 5D
Canon EOS 5D Mark II
Canon EOS 1Ds Mark III
Nikon D3
Nikon D700
Nikon D3X
Sony α 900

If you don’t have any of those you probably have crop sensor.

So why did you really need to know all that?
Let’s now jump to Question A.
Well if you want to shoot landscapes for example you would want a pretty wide angle lens.
Let´s say for example you want to buy a 10-20mm lens for shooting landscapes.
Well if you buy it for a Canon crop factor sensor camera then what you really are buying is a 16-32mm lens. Because 10mm x 1.6 = 16mm and 20mm x 1.6 = 32mm.
So if you have a full frame sensor camera you should probably buy the canon 16-35mm lens instead.

Here are some example of lenses:
10-30mm for landscapes.
30-70mm for people and portraits
70-200mm for zooming in on things, like sports or portraits
200-500mm for bird and wildlife photographs.

Question C.
There are different lenses for Full frame sensor cameras and crop sensor cameras.
All the different lens brands has different names for theses lenses.
For example canon lenses are called either Canon EF or Canon EF-S.
Remember this, ALL EF and EF-S lenses work on a crop factor sensor cameras, BUT ONLY EF lenses work on full frame sensors!
Which means, if you buy an EF-S lens and then a few years later you buy a full frame sensor camera you WILL NOT be able to use that lens on that camera.
But if you buy an EF lens, it will work on both the crop sensor cameras and the full frame sensor cameras!
This works the same on all the camera brands.
So here is how you know the difference between different brands lenses:

Canon EF (Works on both full frame and crop sensor cameras)
Canon EF-S (Only work on crop sensor cameras)

Nikon FX (Works on both full frame and crop sensor cameras)
Nikon DX (Only work on crop sensor cameras)

Sigma DG (Works on both full frame and crop sensor cameras)
Sigma DC (Only work on crop sensor cameras)

Tokina AT-X (Works on both full frame and crop sensor cameras)
Tokina AT-XD (Only work on crop sensor cameras)

5 more things you might see on your lenses.

1. I said this before but remember when it says 55-150 f/3.5 - 5.5, it means that you can photograph at 55mm at f/3.5 and up and when you zoom in to 150mm you can only shoot at 5.5 and up.

2. IS and VR means that the lens has a stabilizer which will make it more easy to shoot by hand.
IS is for Canon, VR is for Nikon.

3. Canon L lenses, these are like the Porches of lenses, they are built better, they are sharper…

4. A prime lens (50mm instead of a zoom lens, 50-70mm) will usually be sharper than a zoom lens.

5. Try to only buy lenses with doesn’t have a f stop that changes when you zoom, they are usually not as good as the ones that has a specific F stop (a f/2.8 and not a 3.5-5.5) no matter how much you zoom.

So now that you have read this, then you should be able to understand how this works.
A great flash application done by: http://www.guraband.com

Well hopefully this will help at least someone, I wish I knew this when I bought my first lenses… :P

Here are some good links if you are looking for specific lenses:
Objektiivi.info Finnish site.
Dpreview Probably one of the biggest camera/lens review sites there is.

Hi guys and girls, sorry that I haven’t updated this blog in such a long time.
Will try to do it more often.
Today I want to go through how to use external flashes.
I will divide this in to 3 sections:

1. Why to use flashes?
I could go on and on, on why to use flashes, but I will try to keep it short.
Most of us use flashes when there isn’t enough light to shoot what you want to shoot at least when you want to stop motion.
But on of my favorite ways of using flash is actually on a bright sunny day.
Put your model or what ever you want to shoot in front of the sun and try to get the clouds or the blue sky to look perfect, when you have your settings right and the sky looks really good then you will notice that all you see of your model is just a black silhouette, but when you put your flashes the flash will only lit up your model and the sky will look just as great as before you put the flash on.
So this way you get both the sky and the model lit up perfectly.

So why do you want to use an external flash?
External flashes are great because they have more power than the flash on your camera, and you are able to direct the flash so that it doesn’t give you that straight on flash your on camera flash gives you. And you are able for example indoors shoot your flash up in the ceiling and get a very soft light that way.

Another good way to use a flash is to set a mood on your photo.

Well okay next part:
2. A normal problem and the solution.
I have been shooting with one or 2 external flashes for quite some time now, but it was time to take the next step and really understand how to use 2 external flashes and really controlling how I’m using my flashes. I have been using my flash in ETTL mode (will explain in section 3 what that means) for years now and pretty much just using the point and shoot method, but here is how you can use it a lot smarter…

Here is a teddy shot with my speedlite 580ex which is on top of my camera, but when shooting vertical shots the flash also turns 90 degrees and you will end up with a subject which is just lit from one side.

(shot with single flash at 1/128)

Yes the teddy is lit up, and you can see that it’s a teddy bear, but it could be better.
Let’s ad another speedlite 430ex from the opposite side.

(shot with 580ex at 1/128 and 430ex at 1/128)

Well now it’s looking a little bit better.
But instead of having 2 lights with the exact same amount of power, let’s give the left side a little bit more light to get a better mood to this picture.

(shot with 580ex at 1/128 and 430ex at 1/64)

See that’s a lot better.
And this actually isn’t that hard to do.
And even if you don’t have 2 flashes you can get the similar effect by just putting a reflector to the other side of the subject.

So it’s time for part 3.
3. The technical section.
Let’s understand how the flash works.
There are 2 different settings you can put your flash on, ETTL and Manual.
ETTL already sounds like a difficult thing, but just think ETTL as shooting with your camera in Auto mode. It works in the same way, the flash will do all the thinking and you can just pretty much point and shoot.
In ETTL mode there are 2 different ways you can change how much flash power you want to fire.
Easiest way, this is how it works on the speedlite 580ex and 430ex.
Press the Mode button until it says ETTL at the top right corner.

Now just press the button inside the wheel, a flash icon will start to blink, now just turn the wheel and it will go from -3 to +3, 0 is normal…

This is a great way if you are using one flash.
But here comes a little problem, when you are using two different flashes, when you change from -3 to +3, it will ALSO change on your other flash if they are used as master and slave.
Will come back to that in a second…
The other way of using your flash is in manual mode or M which is what it says on the speedlite.
So press the Mode button until you see the M in the right upper corner.

Now click on the button inside the wheel, now you can change your flash power from 1/128 to 1/1, 1/1 being the strongest flash.
Then there if you press the Mode once more you will get Multi, and that is when you want your flash to lit up many times while shooting, but I wont go in to that right now.

Okay so now we kind of know how to use ETTL and Manual.
Now let’s see how to set up multiple flashes that will fire at the same time.
I bought a speedlite 580ex because I know that it will be able to work as a master, a master means that you can put it on your camera and it will give a signal to another flash which will work as a slave.
I’m not 100% sure if the 550ex can work as a master or not but at least the 580ex and the 580ex II can work as masters.
Then I have a 430ex which isn’t as powerful as the 580ex and it can’t work as a master, but it will work as a slave, and it will work just fine as a single flash if you put it on your camera.
And remember that if you have a master and slave you will still need to have one flash ON the camera, you can’t just buy one 580ex and have it in your hand and have you camera give it a signal.
At least not just as it is, you can buy a cord that goes from your camera to your flash, or you can buy a transmitter that you put on your camera which gives a signal to your flash, but you can’t use it just by itself.

Okay, so let’s make these two flashes work together…
So lets put the 580ex on you camera and turn it on.
We will first use the ETTL mode on both flashes…
Underneath your 580ex you will see the switch OFF , Master and Slave.
Put it to Master.

Next thing you need to do is to choose your channel, both your master and slave has to be on the same channel to be able to work with each other.
So press the Zoom button until your Ch icon blinks, this is you channel, you can choose from 1-4.
let’s put channel 1 as our channel.

Now turn on your 430ex by putting the switch at the bottom to slave, then do the same thing with your 420ex, put it to channel 1.
And you are done!
Make a test shot and both your flashes should go off at the same time.
And now if you press the button in the middle of the wheel on your 580ex you can change your flash power, but remember these changes will ALSO affect the 430ex!
So you can’t change the flash power from it anymore, even if you go to it and press the button in the middle of the wheel and change the power output, it will not change it!

So here is where ratio comes in, ratio means that you can now select from which flash you want more power.
To get this to work press the zoom button until the ratio icon starts to blink.
turn the wheel and change it to ON.
now you will see your ratio icon and an A and a B.

Now remember, your master flash is always an A! So you want to change your 430ex to a B to be able to change between A and B.
So take your 430ex and press the zoom button until Slave icon blinks, now change it to B!

Now you have your A and B set up.

On your 580ex there will be numbers going from 8:1 to 1:8, this means, 8:1 is full power on your Master and if you turn it to 1:8 it is full power to your slave.

Here is a really important little thing, when you are using this you HAVE to press your zoom button on the 580ex until the icon with the small flash and three small lines starts to blink, here you can choose ON or OFF, you HAVE to have it on OFF for the ratio to work!!

(I sat photographing for three days trying to figure out why the ratio doesn’t work before I figured this out)

Okay so now the last thing, using both flashes with manual flashes.
This is quite strange I think, but you need to put your 580ex to M as in manual.

The 430ex can still be in ETTL mode, if it’s in ETTL mode you can change the power to the 430ex FROM the 580ex. If you put your 430ex to Manual then it will shoot at the power you put in ON the 430ex.
So put on your Manual (M) on your 580ex and press the zoom button until ratio blinks, it should say A and B.

Now you can control A from 1/128 to 1/1 and B from 1/128 to 1/1.
This way you can control how much power will come from which flash.
And that’s it… hopefully I wrote everything right, I wrote this at the same time as I tried everything out step by step so it should work.

Another example of the same technique:
Speedlite 580ex left at 1/64, speedlite 430ex right at 1/8.

So now, happy flashing :D

Okay, so I read through the first tutorial and noticed that it might be good to explain how you use these settings together.
So I thought I would give you some examples how aperture, shutterspeed and iso works together.
I will try to explain it as simple as I can, but I need to go through some technical stuff first, sorry…
I use the metering system on my camera to see if I am under or overexposing my photos.

(The I is in the middle which shows that the photo isn´t over or underexposed)

Which always isn´t the best way, but I think it works most of the time.
The problem is that the camera calculates the light coming from the subject you are photographing but it can´t see the actual light which is on the subject, because you are probably standing a few meters from what you are photographing.

There are usually 3 ways or controlling how your camera is metering the light:
Multi-Segment Metering
This one splits the photo in to different segments, then checks all them, then gives you the light exposure from average of them all.

Center-Weighted Average
This one pretty close to the spot metering, it takes most from the middle and then it takes a little from the rest.

Spot Metering
This one just takes the light exposure from one spot.

This is the icon, where you can see which one you are using at the moment:

To really get the right light exposure you should have a handheld light meter.
This way you can go up to subject and see what the light exposure is where the subject is.

But as I said, I have never used one of these, and I think I´m getting ok pictures…
I mostly just use the Multi-Segment Metering and rely on it.

So NOW we can start with the examples:
Shooting in when it´s sunny outside:
This can be as much trouble as shooting in dark places if you don´t have the right settings.
The biggest problem is that you will blow out the sky, this is something I see on a lot of photos.
The best way to fix this is changing your aperture.
Now three “main” options:
I will mostly go in to how you shoot with Manual settings, but you can shoot with the TV or the AV settings too.

Some basic “rules”:
The first rule is called the “sunny 16″, which means that you should have
Your aperture at f/16
Your Iso at 100, (iso 100 is good in bright sunshine).
Your shutter speed at 1/250 sec

You can have your aperture at a higher aperture too, let´s say f/8.
The difference is that now your lens is letting in more light, which means you have to start using faster shutterspeeds, (something around 1/500sec)
If you are using too higher aperture like f/2.8 your camera might not be able to get the shutterspeed fast enough, which means that your sky will get overexposed, or you will start jumping really big steps, like 1/2000sec to 1/3000sec and there is nothing in between…
Remember to look what your exposure meter on your camera says, is it under or overexposed?
Time for the next example.

Shooting indoors/low light
Now you need to do the opposite from what we just did.
The higher aperture you have the more light it will give you for example 2.8 is a pretty high aperture.
Now you have to start making decisions.

1. Higher iso, will decide how light sensitive you photos will be.
The higher iso amount, the faster shutterspeeds you can use.
But remember that if you are using too hight amount your images will become grainy.

2. Change your aperture.
This is where your lens comes in to play.
Most lenses has different aperture values, for example: f/1,8 or f/3,0 - f/4,5.
f/1.8 means it´s really good to take in low light, because it can let in so much light.
The f/3,0 - f/4,5 are usually on zoom lenses where for example a lens that has the range of 24-70mm, which at 24mm it can give you the aperture of 3,0 and at 70mm it can only give you the highest aperture of 4,5.
And oh, 3,0 - 4,5 doesn´t mean you can´t choose lower apertures, those are just what the highest aperture the lens can have.
So you can still choose f/22 if you want…

3. Change your shutterspeed.
If you are shooting moving cars and you just want those car lights to be visible you can use long shuttertimes.
But if you actually want to get the photo of the car, and you are in low light, you are starting to get in to trouble…
If you take a really fast shutterspeed, even though you have a high iso and a high aperture, you will probably not be able to get the car, you will get a black photo because what the camera is doing is recording the light, and when there isn´t enough light to record it will just give you a black or very dark photo.
Even when you are trying to shoot indoors you might have big problems trying to photographing something that is moving.
But don´t worry that´s when the flash takes its part.

Only problem is if you are shooting with a flash that is on your camera, it will come directly on the subject and overexpose most of the image.
That´s why I´m using an external flash, but that´s a whole other story…

Okay, so now you know how to use your camera (you´ve read the older tutorials, right?) then I think it´s time to move on.
The first thing I´m going to say is that these are guides more than rules!
Sometimes it´s good to break the rules, but understanding the basic rules of composition makes it easier to brake them.
So what is composition?
Composition is how you arrange the things you want to photograph.
Even if you have all the right settings on your camera and you have something really nice to photograph, you can loose a lot of “value” to the shot if it´s not composition the right way.
So here are some basic rules and ideas:

Rule of Third
Rule of third is one of the basic “rules” photographers use to get a good composition.
Before you take a photo you divide your photo in to thirds, both vertically and horizontally.
Now the best places to place your object that you want to get the most attention on one of the lines that crosses another line.

Another way of using the rule of third is using the lines to get the best composition.
In this shot, I didn´t want to use the crossing points, because I didn´t want the jetty to be on either side of the picture.
So I used the top line to guide my photo.

Leave breathing room
Another good thing to think about is directions.
If there is movement in the picture it´s good to leave a little bit of space in front of the object in the direction he/it is moving.

Running out of the image…

Correct composition.

Finding new Angles
Remember that there are a lot of different angles to try out and not always just go with the simple straight in front shots.
Try kneeling down, get up on a chair, just move around and try to find the best angle.

“Normal shot”:

Standing on a chair:

Kneeling down:

Foreground and background
Okay this might not be the perfect shot to demonstrate this but hopefully you will get the idea.
I wanted to photograph the foggy water, I took about 5 photos and noticed that it still looked pretty dull, so I asked my friend to pose and this way I got the foggy water and a lot more interesting shot.

This is a good way to photograph landscapes while being on a trip too, a lot of times you go on a trip, you have 100 photos of the mountains, but when you look at the photographs from your computer later on, they never seem to be that interesting when you can just see a little big of the whole view.
By putting a person in the foreground and the nice mountains in the background, the person gives life to the photo and proportion to how big the mountain actually were.

I’m not sure if I’m the only one that has gotten annoyed when shooting something indoors and the colors isn’t at all what you thought they would be?
For example when I go in to our bathroom, everything is pretty white, the toilet, the sink, the walls and so on.
But when you take a shot everything looks yellow/red.
For some reason your camera don’t see the light as your eyes see it.
The problem is that your normal lights that you have at home are built to have a yellowish light, but if you are shooting with real photo lamps you wouldn’t have this problem…
You can try changing the light settings on your camera, sometimes it works with the lightbulb icon or the fluorescent lamp icon.
But sometimes I’ve noticed that I’m still not getting the colors that I want.
And it can be pretty difficult to try to change the white balance in photoshop later on.
Then you can choose your own white balance by taking a piece of white paper infront of your camera and take a photo, then go to your menu in your camera and choose Custom white balance and look up the photo you took of the white paper.
But sometimes I’m too lacy to do all this, what I do is go to your camera settings in to the color temperature settings and manually choose a warmer or a colder color.
Then go to your settings where you choose your light settings and choose the K icon.

Here is an example from shooting with the Auto light settings:

And this one is shot with manual color temperature at 3200K:

… I know it’s probably one of the most boring shots ever… but you’ll get the idea…

Okay so now we want to take it to the next step.
Fixing your photos in Photoshop, to make them look even better.
Here is an example of what you can do by just changing some settings:

Here is a shot that my girlfriend took with my camera yesterday when I was at work, and there was a storm coming:

And after changing some settings to make this tutorial it ended up like this:

I know it’s a bit overdone and it could be done better, but this was just to show you have much you can change a shot to look for example more dramatic by just changing some settings.

Before I start writing about settings in Photoshop, there are some things that might be good to know.
When shooting landscape shots like this, I think it’s better to underexpose the shot rather than overexpose.
Because if you overexpose a shot, some parts of the shots might end up with white spaces on.
Like this:

When a shot is overexposed like this you will loose everything that is in the white sections, but if you have a dark shot, it’s a lot easier to bring up the light on it and get the details back to the shot.
A simple way to check this when photographing is looking at your info button while looking at your shots in your camera.
You will see a histogram, and if the there is big peaks in the histogram on the right side then it is saying that you are overexposing your shots and bright parts will just end up as white on your photos.

So I rather take underexposed shots than overexposed… okay of course it’s best to take a right exposed shot :P

So moving on to fixing your shots in photoshop…
Everything I will show you now is done by using Adjustment layers, NOT changing the settings directly on the layers!!

If you go to Image - adjustments or using the keyboard shortcuts like Ctrl + U, then everything you change will go straight on to the layer and you won’t be able to change the settings later on.
So go and press the little black and white ball underneath your layers to make an adjustment layer.
The colored blue ones in the picture shown above are the settings I use to fix my photos.

Curves:

This changes the “contrast” on your layer.
I have put three dots on the line, one at the bottom which will change the shadows, one for the midtones and one for the highlights.
Go ahead and change drag it down on the left side and you will notice how your shadows will start getting stronger.
Above the curve you will see a drop down menu that says Channel: RGB.
This means you are changing all the colors.
If you choose Red for example, then you are just changing the red colors on your shot/layer.

Hue And Saturation

Hue And Saturation is probably one of the easiest one to use.
Hue changes the colors of the image, but in my opinion it changes it too much it gives the whole photo a blue color which I usually don’t want, so I don’t use it that much.
The Saturation changes how much colors you have, changing it to 0 will make your image black and white.
Light, is how much light there is, from black to white.

Color Balance

This pretty much the same as Hue but it changes the different colors in the midtone, shadows and highlight.
At standard it’s set to midtones.

Levels

Levels work pretty much in the same way as Curves, you can change the shadows, midtones and highlights with it.

This is a little neat trick that took me some years to learn, and since then I have been using it every day.
If you have an image like this one where something is pretty dark, and you want to make it brighter you might want to split your image in to two different layers.
Here I cut off the beach of the photo and then I put it on to a new layer, then to get it to blend in to the original image I use the feather tool.

Just use your rectangular marquee tool and mark out a place which goes a bit over and a bit under the under the layer, as you can see in the image.
Then right click and choose feather, choose a feather amount, on this image it will work with about 30.
Then when you have the image on two different layers you can use an adjustment layer on just the “beach” layer.
The adjustment layer works so that it changes everything underneath it.
BUT if you Alt click between the adjustment layer and the layer with your photo on it, it will just modify that layer.
So now I can make the beach very light, and leave the sky just as it is:

I can’t really tell exactly how much of all these adjustment layer you have to fix your photos, because it changes on every photo you fix.

Here is another example I did to show you that you can use this on every photo you shoot:
A random shot of me and my girlfriend:

And after:

Av, Tv, P, manual…
What does all these modes mean?

(on the image, the camera is set to P)

All these modes help you to get good shots in all different kind of situations.
But then again if you understand your camera all Av, Tv, P, Automatic and so on… = Manual!
Because all those different modes are just changing the aperture, shutter speed and iso which you also can do if you have Manual on.
I don’t think I have ever used any of the presets, for example the mountain icon or running man icon.
But the ones I do think are good are the Av, Tv and Manual.

Here is a list what the different modes does:
TV - (Shutter priority)
You manually set the shutter speed while the camera automatically sets the Aperture/F stop.
This is good if you for example want’s to capture something that is moving.
Then you can take fast shutter speeds and the aperture will change accordingly to your shutter speed.

Av (Aperture priority)
You manually set the aperture/F stop while the camera automatically sets the shutter speed.
This is a good way when you want to choose your depth of field.

M (Manual)
Pretty much what the name says.
You control everything manually, both the shutter speed and the aperture.

P (Program)
Program is pretty much the same as automatic, the difference between these two is that you are now able to control the focus. This can be good if you like using the automatic but the camera keeps focusing on something in the foreground but you want to capture something in the background.

The icons on the camera are pretty much self explained and as I said I have personally have never used them but here is a list what they do:

Pan Focus Mode - for shots with a lot of action where focusing is difficult. This sets the camera at the widest possible angle to try to keep everything in focus. This mode does not exist on the Rebel.

Portrait Mode - Icon = a head in profile. Use this mode when you want a subject in the foreground in sharp focus.

Landscape Mode - Icon = mountains. Use this mode when you want a wide-angle shot with the background in focus.

Night Scene Mode - Icon = starry field. Use this mode when you’re shooting a subject at night. This setting illuminates the subject with the flash, while keeping the shutter open longer to provide more light for the background.

Black and White Mode - Icon = a figure in contrast. Use this mode to take pictures in black and white (which is not recommended, as you can always take a color picture and covert it into black and white later using a photo editing program like Photoshop). This mode does not exist on the Rebel.

Macro Mode - Icon = a flower. Use this mode for extreme close-up shots.

Sports Mode - Icon = a running figure. Use this mode for shooting scenes with lots of motion, which you want to capture without blurring. This mode does not exist on earlier models of Canon cameras.

Movie Mode - Icon = a movie camera. Use this mode to shoot low-resolution movies directly in the camera (note: no digital still camera in movie mode can come close to the movie quality you get with a digital video camera — consider this mode a novelty only.) This mode does not exist on the Rebel.

First, what is HDR?
HDR is a shortening for: High dynamic range imaging.
This probably doesn’t tell you anything.
So…
“HDR’s are created by taking multiple shots exposed for the highlights, mid-tones and shadows seperately”
This means you are now able to take a right exposed shot for all different tones and then combine them together as one “perfect” shot.

Here is an example how it can look:
shots taken by Stuck in customs
This is a shot that he took with the mid tones.

This is the result of blending together the mid tones, highlights and shadows.

And this is actually pretty easy to do.
All you need is to use your bracketing settings on your camera.
With it you can take multiple shots and the first one will be underexposed, second one will be “the normal one” and then one overexposed shot.
So all you really have to do is use a tripod, put in the bracket settings and hold down your shooting button.

Stuck in Customs did such a good tutorial on this so I won’t write my own tutorial on it.
His tutorial can be found here.

My last words are just pleaaase don’t over do it.
Then it will just look like a normal image with some strange photoshop filters on it.
So use it wisely…